View Full Version : <VV> Wheel studs
Joe West
05-09-2005, 08:49 PM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 19:03:16 -0500
From: Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca>
<VV> Wheel studs
Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to replace
them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a two
pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
Al
Joe West
05-09-2005, 08:52 PM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 20:17:57 -0500
From: John S Ryall <jryall@juno.com>
Re: <VV> Wheel studs
Ue a 5 pound hammer! ;~) John Ryall
On Mon, 1 Nov 1999 19:03:16 -0500 Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca> writes:
> Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
> persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to
> replace
> them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get
> one hub
> changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use
> of a two
> pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
>
> Al
>
>
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Joe West
05-09-2005, 08:52 PM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 21:19:17 EST
From: JVHRoberts@aol.com
Re: <VV> Wheel studs
I used a 4 pound hammer, with old lug nuts on the end. It was actually pretty
easy. Seriously, try a heavier hammer. One shot, and out they come. And with
the lug nut on the end, you run a lot lower risk of the hammer reshaping
something you don't want reshaped, like the hub center. :)
John Roberts
In a message dated 11/1/99 7:23:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca writes:
<< Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to replace
them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a two
pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
Al >>
Joe West
05-09-2005, 08:54 PM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 20:49:32 -0600
From: "Jim Davis" <jld@wk.net>
Re: <VV> Wheel studs
I use a ball joint press.
Jim Davis
Al Kidd wrote:
> Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use
> of a large
> persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year
> and want to replace
> them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could
> only get one hub
> changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat,
> and the use of a two
> pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
>
> Al
Joe West
05-09-2005, 08:56 PM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 00:13:50 -0500
From: Stan East <sgeast@interlog.com>
<VV> Wheel studs
Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca> wrote:
<<Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to
replace
them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a
two
pound hammer. Must be an easier way.>>
Do like I did when I broke 4 of them on one wheel, all broke flush with the
axle flange, use a drill. BTW there was a service bulletin regarding wheel
studs which were installed with to much force so check the bulletin and all
you wheel studs. Especially with that V8 power.
Stan East
Joe West
05-09-2005, 08:58 PM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 05:50:58 -0600
From: "Rick & Janet Norris" <ricjan@earth1.net>
Re: <VV> Wheel studs
Al,
Your BFH ain't big enough!
Rick "The Hammer"
Joe West
05-09-2005, 08:58 PM
- -----Original Message-----
From: Stan East <sgeast@interlog.com>
To: Virtual Vairs (E-mail) <virtualvairs@skiblack.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 11:37 PM
<VV> Wheel studs
>Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca> wrote:
>
><<Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
>persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to
>replace
>them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
>changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a
>two
>pound hammer. Must be an easier way.>>
>
>Do like I did when I broke 4 of them on one wheel, all broke flush with the
>axle flange, use a drill. BTW there was a service bulletin regarding wheel
>studs which were installed with to much force so check the bulletin and all
>you wheel studs. Especially with that V8 power.
>
>Stan East
>
>******************************
>
>
>majordomo@skiblack.com with "unsubscribe virtualvairs" (no quotes) as the
>first
>
>
Joe West
05-13-2005, 08:21 AM
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 00:21:17 -0600
From: "Dr. Robert Hill" <oldcars@cafes.net>
<VV> Wheels and spoilers and the likes
well the Chuckster gave em an idea this afternoon and the more I think about
it, the more I like it. The 66 I just bought is the 11th Corvair I have
owned but I have never modified any of them....until now. I have decided
that I am going to go a little against stock on this one but not so much
that I can't undo most of it.
First thing I am going to do is put on non-stock rims and tires. I know this
has been discussed but I would like some nice Corvette style rallys or
IROC-Z rims. Are these compatible with the bolt pattern of a 66? Secondly,
how wide of a rim can I put on the front wiht out them rubbing the inner
fenders? How about in the rear? Will I need to lift the rear some to
accommodate a larger tire and wheel?
I have been looking through Clark's and noticed a rear spoiler that has
caught my eye. Anyone used this and if so, how well doe sit fit, etc.?
What about a front spoiler, any suggestions?
Racing stripes! Looking to paint the car a dark blue and put white racing
stripes down the hood, roof and deck lid. (or maybe another color
combination but the question is the same), where can I get the stripe kit?
Now I know that you purists will probably want to disown me but hey I went
through 10 originals to get here ;- )
Thanks
Bob
Joe West
05-13-2005, 08:23 AM
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 02:27:24 -0800
From: "Joel Rushworth" <westerncanadacorsa@home.com>
Re: <VV> Wheels and spoilers and the likes
> well the Chuckster gave em an idea this afternoon and the more I think
about
> it, the more I like it. The 66 I just bought is the 11th Corvair I have
> owned but I have never modified any of them....until now. I have decided
> that I am going to go a little against stock on this one but not so much
> that I can't undo most of it.
Hey have some fun with your 'vair!! Unless you're talkin' about modifying
some super rare, Canadian built '66 Corsa turbo convertible why shouldn't
you have fun modifying it? Its not like 'vairs were rare cars!
>
> First thing I am going to do is put on non-stock rims and tires. I know
this
> has been discussed but I would like some nice Corvette style rallys or
> IROC-Z rims. Are these compatible with the bolt pattern of a 66?
Secondly,
> how wide of a rim can I put on the front wiht out them rubbing the inner
> fenders? How about in the rear? Will I need to lift the rear some to
> accommodate a larger tire and wheel?
Check out Brian Blackwells site for the skinny on fat meats. Off the top of
my head. 205/55 R15s for the front and 225/50 r15s for the rear or
something close to that shouldn't pose any clearance problems.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9164/tires.html
>
> I have been looking through Clark's and noticed a rear spoiler that has
> caught my eye. Anyone used this and if so, how well doe sit fit, etc.?
> What about a front spoiler, any suggestions?
Sorry, no experience with this one
>
> Racing stripes! Looking to paint the car a dark blue and put white racing
> stripes down the hood, roof and deck lid. (or maybe another color
> combination but the question is the same), where can I get the stripe kit?
Check out the Western Canada CORSA member rides page and check out Dave
Beddome's LM. He has got it done up real slick with racin' stripes just as
you describe. I can't wait to finally see this car "in the flesh" one of
these days.
http://www.members.home.net/westerncanadacorsa/wcc_members_rides.htm
> Now I know that you purists will probably want to disown me but hey I went
> through 10 originals to get here ;- )
Ultra Rare one of 154 Cdn '64 Spyder 'verts for a total restoration anyone?
> Thanks
>
> Bob
>
Good luck! And remember.... if it don't go, CHROME IT!
Regards,
Joel
CORSA member
1966 Corsized Monza
http://www.members.home.net/westerncanadacorsa
>
> ******************************
> This message was sent by the Corvair list, all copyrights are the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. To unsubscribe,
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Joe West
05-13-2005, 08:50 AM
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:57:37 EST
From: JBurkhard@aol.com
Re: <VV> Wheels and spoilers and the likes
In a message dated 23-Feb-00 01:24:25 Eastern Standard Time,
oldcars@cafes.net writes:
> First thing I am going to do is put on non-stock rims and tires. I know
this
> has been discussed but I would like some nice Corvette style rallys or
> IROC-Z rims. Are these compatible with the bolt pattern of a 66?
Yes. 5 studs, 4.75" bolt circle
> Secondly,
> how wide of a rim can I put on the front wiht out them rubbing the inner
> fenders? How about in the rear?
This depends on the specific wheel (largely the offset) and also the tires
you are going to use. SOmebody (Bryan Blackwell, perhaps) has info on this
on his web site. Or maybe those oft-quoted archives.... Now, how do you get
to them?
> Will I need to lift the rear some to
> accommodate a larger tire and wheel?
You shouldn't, as long as you don't get cartoonish.
> I have been looking through Clark's and noticed a rear spoiler that has
> caught my eye. Anyone used this and if so, how well doe sit fit, etc.?
> What about a front spoiler, any suggestions?
No idea on the rear spoiler. These are basically for looks. For the front
spoiler, a lot of folks like using ones from S-10 trucks. They do look
pretty decent. It's the _previous_ series, not the current ones. Somebody
else pipe in with the exact years. Also, you will have to trim the ends a
bit....
> Racing stripes! Looking to paint the car a dark blue and put white racing
> stripes down the hood, roof and deck lid. (or maybe another color
> combination but the question is the same), where can I get the stripe kit?
Stripe kit? If you are painting the car anyhow, have them painted on. MUCH
nicer, IMHO.
> Now I know that you purists will probably want to disown me but hey I went
> through 10 originals to get here ;- )
Nah.... Have fun!
Jim
Joe West
05-29-2005, 11:42 AM
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 13:21:04 -0800
From: "N. Joseph Potts" <pottsf@email.msn.com>
Re: <VV> Questions regarding wheel rim.
Not knowing the wheels, I don't know about removing material from the
wheels, but I don't think I would do that under any circumstances. I also
would stay away from using a spacer because that imposes additional strain
on the (only) four wheel studs. I can't answer your question about
"positive" offset, but this IS a thing you can measure and see for yourself
if you have both wheels on hand. If your candidate wheels have 1.5" too much
or too little backset, I don't think I would use them regardless of the
direction of the error.
Joe Potts
Miami, Florida USA
1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C
Joe West
05-29-2005, 11:54 AM
-----Original Message-----
> From: N. Joseph Potts [mailto:pottsf@email.msn.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 3:21 PM
> To: Rick Loving; 'Virtual Vairs'
> Re: <VV> Questions regarding wheel rim.
>
>
> Not knowing the wheels, I don't know about removing material from the
> wheels, but I don't think I would do that under any circumstances. I also
> would stay away from using a spacer because that imposes additional strain
> on the (only) four wheel studs. I can't answer your question about
> "positive" offset, but this IS a thing you can measure and see for
yourself
> if you have both wheels on hand. If your candidate wheels have 1.5" too
much
> or too little backset, I don't think I would use them regardless of the
> direction of the error.
>
> Joe Potts
> Miami, Florida USA
> 1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C
>
Joe West
05-29-2005, 12:01 PM
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 22:33:31 EST
From: Sethracer@aol.com
Re: <VV> Questions regarding wheel rims.
In a message dated 11/17/00 4:50:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
pottsf@email.msn.com writes:
<< The wheels are the same 1960-69, according to my impression, except for the
bolt circles.
>> No the 60-61 wheels are different in several ways. Unless you are
"Concours oriented" you should run later 62-64 wheels. Early ones have been
known to crack. <<
You got the same measurement on your Vair wheel as I got. Your
two types of wheels are different by 7/8" (as you knew). To me, that is TOO
much.
>>If they are the same overall width as stock wheels, the 7/8" doesn't matter
much.<<
But I'm not an expert on adapting wheels to Vairs or anything else, so
my opinion is of the humble variety. Aside from clearance problems, your MG
wheels will overload your front-axle stubs and rear-axle shafts. How
seriously, I can't say.
I found that a set of 14" five-hole BMW wheels fit my LM perfectly.
>>Close - the BMW has a 120mm bolt pattern, the Vair 120.7mm (4.75") There
is likely a small side loading of the studs, okay for street perhaps. I
wouldn't use them but "Your mileage may vary!"<<
The
same rims exist for BMW with four holes. If the bolt circle fits, I'd bet
the backset will be correct. >>
The BMW 4-hole wheels are 100mm bolt pattern and won't fit the Vair. They
will fit an Opel Wagon, though. That's what I used a set on about 20 years
ago!
- - Seth Emerson
Joe West
06-13-2005, 08:21 PM
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:55:48 -0600
From: "Williams, Rickie" <williamr@lindsey.edu>
<VV> Measuring 5-Lug wheels
Tire Rack's diagram bugs me due to the fact that one must measure from the
center of a hole to the outside edge of an "opposite" hole. How does this
technique deal with the various possible sized holes for the lug studs? I
don't think it does.
The word "opposite" is having to be used rather loosely in that the holes
are not exactly opposite each other...just in the ball park.
So, here's the math based on a center to center measurement of either
adjacent or "opposite" holes on 5-lug wheels...
For 5-lug wheels, the theoretical measurement for the center to center
distance between adjacent holes is:
(bolt circle diameter) times (sin 36 degrees)
and the theoretical measurement for the center to center distance between
"opposite" holes is:
(bolt circle diameter) times (sin 72 degrees).
This formula is not all that helpful in that if you knew the bolt circle
diameter, then why would you be measuring the distance between the holes?
However, it can be used to "try" to find the bolt circle diameter by doing
the following...
1) Measure as good as you possibly can from the center to center of either
adjacent holes or "opposite" holes.
2) Compare your measurement with the "popular" diameters plugged into the
formulas above.
I would think that the three most popular bolt circle diameters (in inches)
are 4.5", 4.75", and 5".
For the ones of you who do not want to do the math, compare your
measurements with the ones I have provided below (to the nearest
thousandth)...
4.5" adjacent = 2.645", opposite = 4.280"
4.75" adjacent = 2.792", opposite = 4.518"
5" adjacent = 2.939", opposite = 4.755"
Provided you can eyeball the center of the holes close enough, maybe this
data will help.
Rickie Williams
Columbia, KY
Joe West
06-20-2005, 10:59 AM
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:35:35 EDT
From: Levair@AOL.COM
Re: <VV> Wheel lugs and anti-sieze
In a message dated 8/4/02 3:41:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
carmerjr@mindspring.com writes:
<< Hey Jim, NO to anti-seize! Use a small wire brush or wire >>
Use antiseize on the threads but not on the taper area. The taper holdas the
wheel nut on. We use it all of the time on the race cars to keep from wearing
the studs out.
Warren
Joe West
07-08-2005, 01:16 PM
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 22:16:04 EDT
From: JVHRoberts@AOL.COM
Re: <VV> Show me your wheels!
In a message dated 10/23/2003 7:38:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
airvair@richnet.net writes:
Actually, they are officially known as "diamond spoke" wheels, available
(and standard) on only the GT or Formula-optioned models from '86-8. The
'86-7 version was identical on all four corners and painted gray, the
'88 had 1" narrower rims on the front and painted either black or gold.
- -Mark (author of the Fiero Spotter's Guide)
Yep, got an 88 GT myself. 6" up front, 7" out back. Not something to put on a
Corvair. By the time you remachine everything for the 100mm bolt pattern, you
won't have enough meat in the front hubs for the bearings, and the studs will
be so close to the hubs, there's no good way to seat them!
I'd rather do the slight remachining for BMW wheels. The M3s use wider rear
wheels than the fronts, and these are 17x7.5 and 17x8.5. Even the tires for the
M3 are about the same as the stock Corvair tires, at 24.9".
Joe West
07-10-2005, 05:15 PM
---------
From: DCCOFFIN@ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 12:32:23 EST
wheels and backspacing
To: corvair@SHADOW.MITRE.ORG
Re: wheels, offset, backspacing.
Sethracer mentions you can always use spacers if your backspace
measurement is too much, and this in true. But, don't forget that
you have to use longer studs! Not any easy swap on the rear of
a corvair. I know, I had to change all 10 at the runoffs at
Mid_Ohio this year. :-( The Rear hubs have to be disassembled.
Later,
_______ Mark Coffin
/_______\P Assistant Professor, School of Business, ECU
|00==v==00| #14 ITC VW Scirocco
[ ]-----[ ] Central Carolinas Region SCCA
Bitnet: DCCOFFIN@ECUVM1
Internet: DCCOFFIN@ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU
Fax: (919) 328-6664
---------
Joe West
07-10-2005, 05:16 PM
From: Sethracer@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 19:08:39 -0500
To: DCCOFFIN@ecuvm.cis.ecu.edu
Cc: corvair@shadow.mitre.org
Re: wheels and backspacing
The hubs have to be disassembled only if you are going to the real long
aftermarket studs, There are 1.75" Vette studs available from Chevy that will
go in just fine. These will hold at least 3/8" of spacers -more than I would
recommend anyway. - Seth
---------
Joe West
07-17-2005, 09:21 PM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 19:30:06 -0500
From: Sethracer@aol.com
To: Multiple recipients of <corvair@jlab.mitre.org>
Re: Lugnuts and IROC wheels
You wrote
A buddy wants to know if there's a source for lugnuts to allow fitting the
late model GM alloy wheels (the one with metric thread lugstuds) to earlier
GM cars, aka Corvairs. Seems that there was an article about this very
topic that was in Corsa about ten years or so ago, written by some guy who
had a rich uncle or something. Know anything about that?
He wants lugnuts which have the correct taper on the mating surface that
won't work loose and snap off the studs... he wants to fit IROC wheels onto
a late coupe.
Been there - Done that. The lug nuts used on the Common car at the 93/94
conventions. (86 IROC 16x8 wheels) were purchased at a local Super Shops.
They were made by Gorilla products. I believe the same units are available at
Pep Boys and others. Look for the kind that have a round cone at the contact
point on the wheel. The standard nut is a hex shape with a machined taper at
one end. The results in points at the top of the taper, just the thing to cut
into your new wheels. I believe the conical faced nuts have the correct angle
of taper, as well as the right size face. Remember 7/16" RH thread. - Seth
Emerson
Joe West
07-21-2005, 11:00 PM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 22:16:32 -0400
From: Bruce Schug <bschug@piedmont.net>
To: Multiple recipients of <corvair@jlab.mitre.org>
<VV>: Re: Camaro Wheels
>Bruce, A week or so ago you wrote about using Z-28 wheels on a Corvair. I
>have heard that special lugnuts need to be used. Apparently the studs are
>smaller on a Corvair than the Camaro and if Corvair nuts are used they can
>pull through the wheel.
>
>I have a set of wheels but no lugnuts. Can you advise what nuts to use
>and/or where to get them? Wade Lanning
Wade,
Sorry to take so long to respond, been very busy.
My experience is with the 16" x 8" IROC Z-28 wheels. I'm sure the 15"
wheels are the same.
Yes, the studs are different. The Camaro uses metric studs which take a
different thread. So you can't use the Camaro lug nuts. You have a couple
of choices. You probably could install the Camaro studs into the Corvair
hubs, which would allow you to use the Camaro lug nuts. I think I heard of
someone doing this. I don't know what the situation is with the different
diameter of the Camaro studs which are metric. I don't feel this is a very
practical solution.
Secondly, you can keep your Corvair studs. This is where the real problem
arises. The Corvair lug nuts WON'T pull through the wheel, this is a pretty
severe exaggeration of the problem. The problem is the angle of the surface
which the lug nut contacts is different and the Corvair lug nuts won't fit
properly. This is not a life and death situation. I ran Corvair nuts for
awhile until I understood and solved the problem. The Corvair nuts just
chew the mating surface up a little each time they're installed. The
solution is to get different lug nuts which have the standard Chevy
threads, but with the angle to fit the Camaro Wheels.
I found an article in the July, 1988 Hot Rod which reads as follows: "One
of the new trends in street chic wheels is the use of late-model IROC
Camaro and Corvette wheels on early-model Chevys. While the 4 3/4 inch bolt
pattern remains the same, the specific late-model metric lug nuts cannot be
retained. Some rodders are using incorrect acorn-style lug nuts and other
designs that do not offer the proper contact area for the radiused contact
face - and could be dangerous. However, Ronal Wheels (15692 Compuer Ln.,
Huntington Beach, CA 92649, 800/552-0934) offers a lug nut for its R9
wheel(part No. 2160) with the standard 7/16 x 20 thread for early Chevys
that works perfectly."
I purchased 16 of these from a Super Shops speed shop. They aren't cheap,
at the time they were $3.50 apiece, but they are good. I then found a set
of wheel locks which fit the Corvair studs. These don't have the proper
angle, so I always use them in the same hole. This way they don't ream out
all the holes, just that one.
I understand there is another nut which is supposed to work. It's called a
Gorilla "bulge" nut. I think Gorilla is the brand name. Bill Pritchard used
to have some of these. He's in the Roster. These were less expensive than
the Ronal nuts.
Another issue you should give some thought to is the length of the stud.
Because of the increased wheel thickness, you have fewer threads which the
nut screws onto. I just measured that my rear nuts are on 5 1/2 threads,
the fronts 7 1/2. I guess the wheels are a little different thickness. How
much do you need? I think I remember NHRA requireing threads equal to the
diameter of the stud. A 7/16" stud would then require 8.75 threads, more
than I have. Longer studs are available. Someone gave me a GM part #
3910340, which is a Corvette stud which is 1/2" longer. I use stock studs
and have never had a problem. My use has included spinning my car a few
times, once on the street, the rest at autocrosses, with 225/50-16
Gatorbacks. If you decide to use longer studs, be sure your lug nuts have
enough depth to accept them.
Hope this information is helpful to you.
Sincerely,
Bruce
P,S. Brett should graduate from Georgia Tech in Decenber with his PhD in
Chem Eng. Don't know where he'll go then. I am also posting this to the
group in hope that it may be of interest to others.
Bruce W. Schug
CORSA South Carolina
bschug@piedmont.net
Daytime: 864/676-9292 x120
Home: 864/268-2884
3 South Del Norte Road
Greenville, SC 29615
'67 Monza, "67AC140"
******************************
Joe West
07-23-2005, 11:05 AM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 14:24:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Sethracer@aol.com
To: Multiple recipients of <corvair@jlab.mitre.org>
<VV>: Re: Wheels and tires.
Okay - The word from the Wheel guru - The BMW wheels are a bolt pattern 5
bolts on 120 millimeter. Very close to the 5 on 4.75 inch Chevy. The 4.75
inch equate to about 120.7 millimeters. However, that .7 millimeter iis
important. if you are using wheels which clamp down with shank-type lug nuts.
(So called Mag-style nuts) and they actually fit into the BMW rim without any
fudging or clearancing of the hole, (I consider this unlikely), you are
probably okay. Certainly the runout which might ensue from the .7 mm is
slight, likely less than your tire runout. The reason this is okay is the
wheel stud is being clamped by the lugnut in tension and not being twisted
over. If your wheels use a tapered lug nut seat, like the stock Corvair and
most OEM wheels - DO NOT USE THE BMW WHEELS! The problem here is the studs
are not the same pattern as the tapered holes in the wheels. The first lugnut
you tighten will be centered. The other four lugs will then induce a bending
moment to their stud as you tighten them down as well as pulling the other
studs in their direction. You will end up with all the studs being bent
inward under a side load. This is not a good idea, and is not recommended. -
Seth
******************************
Joe West
07-23-2005, 11:08 AM
----------
> From: Sethracer@aol.com
> To: Multiple recipients of <corvair@jlab.mitre.org>
> <VV>: Re: Wheels and tires.
> Date: Saturday, August 16, 1997 2:24 PM
>
> Okay - The word from the Wheel guru - The BMW wheels are a bolt pattern 5
> bolts on 120 millimeter. Very close to the 5 on 4.75 inch Chevy. The 4.75
> inch equate to about 120.7 millimeters. However, that .7 millimeter iis
> important. if you are using wheels which clamp down with shank-type lug
nuts.
> (So called Mag-style nuts) and they actually fit into the BMW rim without
any
> fudging or clearancing of the hole, (I consider this unlikely), you are
> probably okay. Certainly the runout which might ensue from the .7 mm is
> slight, likely less than your tire runout. The reason this is okay is the
> wheel stud is being clamped by the lugnut in tension and not being
twisted
> over. If your wheels use a tapered lug nut seat, like the stock Corvair
and
> most OEM wheels - DO NOT USE THE BMW WHEELS! The problem here is the
studs
> are not the same pattern as the tapered holes in the wheels. The first
lugnut
> you tighten will be centered. The other four lugs will then induce a
bending
> moment to their stud as you tighten them down as well as pulling the
other
> studs in their direction. You will end up with all the studs being bent
> inward under a side load. This is not a good idea, and is not
recommended. -
> Seth
>
> ******************************
> This message was sent by the Corvair list, all copyrights are the
property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. To unsubscribe, send mail to
>
>
>
>
******************************
Joe West
07-23-2005, 09:00 PM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 14:24:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Sethracer@aol.com
To: Multiple recipients of <corvair@jlab.mitre.org>
<VV>: Re: Wheels and tires.
Okay - The word from the Wheel guru - The BMW wheels are a bolt pattern 5
bolts on 120 millimeter. Very close to the 5 on 4.75 inch Chevy. The 4.75
inch equate to about 120.7 millimeters. However, that .7 millimeter iis
important. if you are using wheels which clamp down with shank-type lug nuts.
(So called Mag-style nuts) and they actually fit into the BMW rim without any
fudging or clearancing of the hole, (I consider this unlikely), you are
probably okay. Certainly the runout which might ensue from the .7 mm is
slight, likely less than your tire runout. The reason this is okay is the
wheel stud is being clamped by the lugnut in tension and not being twisted
over. If your wheels use a tapered lug nut seat, like the stock Corvair and
most OEM wheels - DO NOT USE THE BMW WHEELS! The problem here is the studs
are not the same pattern as the tapered holes in the wheels. The first lugnut
you tighten will be centered. The other four lugs will then induce a bending
moment to their stud as you tighten them down as well as pulling the other
studs in their direction. You will end up with all the studs being bent
inward under a side load. This is not a good idea, and is not recommended. -
Seth
******************************
Joe West
07-23-2005, 09:04 PM
----------
> From: Sethracer@aol.com
> To: Multiple recipients of <corvair@jlab.mitre.org>
> <VV>: Re: Wheels and tires.
> Date: Saturday, August 16, 1997 2:24 PM
>
> Okay - The word from the Wheel guru - The BMW wheels are a bolt pattern 5
> bolts on 120 millimeter. Very close to the 5 on 4.75 inch Chevy. The 4.75
> inch equate to about 120.7 millimeters. However, that .7 millimeter iis
> important. if you are using wheels which clamp down with shank-type lug
nuts.
> (So called Mag-style nuts) and they actually fit into the BMW rim without
any
> fudging or clearancing of the hole, (I consider this unlikely), you are
> probably okay. Certainly the runout which might ensue from the .7 mm is
> slight, likely less than your tire runout. The reason this is okay is the
> wheel stud is being clamped by the lugnut in tension and not being
twisted
> over. If your wheels use a tapered lug nut seat, like the stock Corvair
and
> most OEM wheels - DO NOT USE THE BMW WHEELS! The problem here is the
studs
> are not the same pattern as the tapered holes in the wheels. The first
lugnut
> you tighten will be centered. The other four lugs will then induce a
bending
> moment to their stud as you tighten them down as well as pulling the
other
> studs in their direction. You will end up with all the studs being bent
> inward under a side load. This is not a good idea, and is not
recommended. -
> Seth
>
> ******************************
> This message was sent by the Corvair list, all copyrights are the
property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. To unsubscribe, send mail to
>
>
>
>
******************************
Joe West
08-01-2005, 06:21 AM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 01:12:28 -0700
From: Herb & Jonni Berkman <hjberkmn@flash.net>
To: Multiple recipients of <corvair@jlab.mitre.org>
<VV>: Re: VV-Digest - Number 2623 - Western Wheels
Response to this from Mike Downey: "Herb B. had a set of these on his
red 65 also (hi Herb!).
They are no longer available AFAIK. "
Yeah, I still have them! Bought them in '83 in LA just before the
Seattle Convention. I forgot they were called "Superlites", but I know
they aren't available any more. Heck, I don't even think Western Wheel
stil exists!.
They are great looking wheels, but they are really pretty cheap
imitations of minilites (in '83 they cost $56 each!) and I've been
looking for a look-alike replacement for a couple of years.
These wheels were made with slotted holes so they would fit several
different diaameter bolt patterns, and they use the shoulder type lug
nuts with a flat washer. I guess if I had put them on and left them on,
those slots would not have been a problem. But all through the '80s I
was changing back and forth from street to slalom tires every weekend,
so the aluminum around the slots started to wallow out and the washers
(which were kind of thin) started to bend into the eroded area. I fixed
the problem for a while by buying the thick washers made by Cragar.
However, after torquing the lug nuts a couple of times, even these
washers went conical. To make matters worse, I have converted all my
wheel studs from 7/16" to 1/2". So now I have to use 1/2" shoulder
style lug nuts, which of course have less wall thickness.
Okay, it gets worse, so stay with me: When the washer bends into a
shallow cone, sooner or later the outer edge of the inner diameter gets
smaller and cuts into the wall of the lug nut. I can tell if its
digging in when I can no longer get the washer off the nut. When this
happens, a severe stress concentration develops around the base of the
lug nut so when you try to torque the nut, it twists off in the wrench.
If it doesn't come off then, it will probably come off on the road! Once
I discovered this was happening, I became very careful about torquing
the nuts. Now I inspect all the lug nuts every time I change tires. As
soon as I find a washer that's starting to get tight on the nut, I throw
it away and buy a new set.
Moral of the story: NEVER buy wheels with slotted holes! Never buy
wheels that use those #&*@#!! shoulder nuts! Always use wheels that
mount with the normal conical style lug nuts, and if they are alloy,
make sure they have a hardened seat in the mounting holes.
I tried to find some new wheels with a similar look before the
Albuquerque convention, but there was nothing out there. I'm still
looking! Everything on the market nowadays is brightly polished with
some kind of fancy spoke pattern. IMHO, most of these wheels are so
ostentatious they are obnoxious. There is nothing out there with a
bright outer ring and a dark multi-spoke center. The only thing that
comes close is the "Torq-thruster D" made by American Racing, which is a
retro look back to the '60s muscle cars. They only come with gray
centers, but I had to paint the Westerns black when I got them, so I
guess I can do it again.
-Herb
******************************
Joe West
08-02-2005, 06:58 AM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: 4404 EMF2/CC <4404EMF2CC@psab.aorcentaf.af.mil>
To: "'jw5454@webtv.net'" <jw5454@webtv.net>, virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com
RE: <VV> un-a-lug wheels
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 07:25:21 +0300
John,
Call me crazy, but we had that same problem on one of our military work
trucks. (No, we don't put fancy wheels on them, but I could hope ;-) )
Seriously though, we had a truck that every week the two rear wheel lug nuts
would loosen. It was solved by pulling the hubs off, pressing the threaded
studs out, and installing new ones. After that the lugs stayed tight. You
might want to try that on one or two of your hubs before you sell, or junk
the wheels.
Just an thought,
Glenn
LT Glenn A Killingbeck
U.S. NAVY
EM/MMF2 OIC/Unit Commander (434-7808)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jw5454@webtv.net [SMTP:jw5454@webtv.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 1998 6:24 AM
> To: virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com
> Subject: <VV> un-a-lug wheels
>
> Hi all. I have this great looking set of turbo looking, un-a-lug wheels
> that I can not keep tight on my LM. Bought new washers that are made to
> fix this problem. Did not work. Any advice from anybody as to what my
> options are,sure hate to junk them.
> Thanks, John Miller
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Joe West
08-14-2005, 03:20 PM
Message-ID: <8c79a0f6.36e21393@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 00:50:11 EST
To: dbeddome@home.com, virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: <VV> wheel offset spacing ?
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Dave wrote:
I wanted the easy answer.<g> So, I have no stock rims, need new wheels
what would you suggest? Street use, stock suspension, the car is a 68.
Thanks, Dave
Dave -
On a late model, if you want flashy looks, durability and good performance at
low cost. I would do the following: Wheels - Find a set of early 90's (91-92)
Camaro RS wheels. These are 15" x 7" wheels. They are less common than the
earlier 15 x 7" (Which were used from 1982 to 1989 or 90. Tires - There are
several 205-55/15 tires available, you will have to look, though. They are
23.9" tall - the same as a P175-80/13 - almost identical to a stock Corvair
tire. They are also exactly the same height as a 225-50/15 so you can run
those on the back if you want wider there. They will clear everything on a
late model, with no change to speedometer readings, etc. The late wheel
(91-92) uses the same center cap over the lugs as the 93-97 Camaro Wheel. You
will have to buy the right lug nuts to use later wheels on 7/16" studs,
neither the Camaro lugs nor the Corvair lugs will work right. Pep Boys and
others carry the correct "bulge" lug nut. I would buy locks, too. They will
look great! - Seth
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Joe West
08-15-2005, 06:00 AM
Message-ID: <73c15768.36e9467b@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 11:53:15 EST
To: PatioMatt@aol.com, virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com
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Re: <VV> Re: Tire Diameters
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In a message dated 3/11/99 10:51:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
PatioMatt@aol.com writes:
<< Ps Anyone ever use a BMW wheel on a Chev 5 X 4 3/4 ??? They are
Cheap ! >>
The BMW is a 5 on 120 mm the Vair is Chevy 5 on 4.75" this equals to 120.7 mm.
I have seen the BMW wheels on Vairs. I would wonder about the pre-loading of
the wheen studs when you clamp down the lug nuts. I always wondered if some
enterprising CNC machinist could make a special tool for me. It would be a
piece of steel plate with different tooling on each side. On the first side
would be two 7/16 by 20 wheel studs arranged as two of the five studs in the
BMW pattern 5 x 120mm. The other three holes would be located and loaded with
clear, unthreaded steel rod. These rods would be used as pilots to regrind the
three holes to the Chevy bolt pattern 5 on 120.7mm. A slight touch up with an
angle cutter would relocate the tapered seat for the lugnuts for those three
holes. Then you remove the tool and flip it over. SIde number two has three
threaded studs in the Chevy bolt pattern, and two steel rods to use as pilots.
You bolt this in place (with the three studs in the holes relocated in step
one) and "correct" the remaining two holes with the angle cutter. You have now
transformed a BMW bolt pattern wheel into a Chevy bolt pattern wheel. How
about it? Any machinists out there who want to make that tool for me? Side two
means drilling a standard Chevy bolt pattern then inserting three Wheel lugs.
Side one is a bit more complex, two concentric bolt patterns. - Interested?
drop me back a note! - Seth
******************************
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Joe West
08-15-2005, 06:00 AM
Message-ID: <3a19cd1d.36e946ad@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 11:54:05 EST
To: gaube@magi.com, JVHRoberts@aol.com, virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
<VV> Re: BMW Wheels/late Vair
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gaube@magi.com writes:
<< According to Dave Binne, who has been using BMW wheels for some time now,
the difference in the bolt patterns is about the width of a piece of paper
divided
equally over the pattern. I've seen a picture of his late model with wheels
from a
635CSi on it, and it looks great. European wheels seem to compliment the
Euro-styling of the late model. >>
Right and since the Vair "studs " are short, you need to use a "shouldered"
lug nut anyway!
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Joe West
08-15-2005, 06:23 AM
From: PatioMatt@aol.com
Return-path: <PatioMatt@aol.com>
To: Sethracer@aol.com
Re: Beemer Wheels on a LM
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 22:08:24 EST
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IPatioMatt@aol.com wrote::
<< Anyone ever use a BMW wheel on a Chev 5 X 4 3/4 ??? They are Cheap !
>>
SethRacer replied;
The BMW is a 5 on 120 mm the Vair is Chevy 5 on 4.75" this equals to 120.7
mm. I have seen the BMW wheels on Vairs. I would wonder about the pre-loading
of the wheen studs when you clamp down the lug nuts. I always wondered if some
enterprising CNC machinist could make a special tool for me. It would be a
piece of ste >>
IOn other wheel combos I've just used a "hollow Reamer" and the cars "hub /
studs" for a guide. For "street driven" cars the tires can be 0.100" out of
round and you'll never notice ...
--part0_921294792_boundary--
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Joe West
08-15-2005, 06:26 AM
Message-ID: <d2c78804.36e9df78@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 22:46:00 EST
To: PatioMatt@aol.com, Sethracer@aol.com, virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com
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<VV> Re: Beemer Wheels on a LM
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That last one worries me. This means the studs are carrying all the load, and
they are being bent into shape to boot. Definitely not a great idea! But, that
same CNC guy could make up a drill guide to redrill the hubs on the car. Make
SURE it has hardened drill jig bushings in the holes. And get those centering
rings!!!
Or get your CNC guy to remachine the bolt holes int he wheel to fit right,
including the lug seats. And again, GET THOSE CENTERING RINGS!!!
In a message dated 3/12/99 10:13:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, PatioMatt
writes:
<< IPatioMatt@aol.com wrote::
<< Anyone ever use a BMW wheel on a Chev 5 X 4 3/4 ??? They are Cheap !
>>
SethRacer replied;
The BMW is a 5 on 120 mm the Vair is Chevy 5 on 4.75" this equals to 120.7
mm. I have seen the BMW wheels on Vairs. I would wonder about the pre-loading
of the wheen studs when you clamp down the lug nuts. I always wondered if some
enterprising CNC machinist could make a special tool for me. It would be a
piece of ste >>
IOn other wheel combos I've just used a "hollow Reamer" and the cars "hub /
studs" for a guide. For "street driven" cars the tires can be 0.100" out of
round and you'll never notice ... >>
******************************
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Joe West
08-16-2005, 07:57 PM
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<VV> Re: BMW Wheels/late Vair
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gaube@magi.com writes:
<< According to Dave Binne, who has been using BMW wheels for some time now,
the difference in the bolt patterns is about the width of a piece of paper
divided
equally over the pattern. I've seen a picture of his late model with wheels
from a
635CSi on it, and it looks great. European wheels seem to compliment the
Euro-styling of the late model. >>
Right and since the Vair "studs " are short, you need to use a "shouldered"
lug nut anyway!
******************************
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Joe West
08-22-2005, 07:18 AM
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From: "Rick & Janet Norris" <ricjan@earth1.net>
To: "Stan East" <sgeast@interlog.com>,
"Virtual Vairs (E-mail)" <virtualvairs@skiblack.com>
Re: <VV> Wheel studs
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 05:50:58 -0600
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Al,
Your BFH ain't big enough!
Rick "The Hammer"
Joe West
08-22-2005, 07:18 AM
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan East <sgeast@interlog.com>
To: Virtual Vairs (E-mail) <virtualvairs@skiblack.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 11:37 PM
<VV> Wheel studs
>Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca> wrote:
>
><<Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
>persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to
>replace
>them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
>changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a
>two
>pound hammer. Must be an easier way.>>
>
>Do like I did when I broke 4 of them on one wheel, all broke flush with the
>axle flange, use a drill. BTW there was a service bulletin regarding wheel
>studs which were installed with to much force so check the bulletin and all
>you wheel studs. Especially with that V8 power.
>
>Stan East
>
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<VV> Wheel studs
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 00:13:50 -0500
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Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca> wrote:
<<Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to
replace
them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a
two
pound hammer. Must be an easier way.>>
Do like I did when I broke 4 of them on one wheel, all broke flush with the
axle flange, use a drill. BTW there was a service bulletin regarding wheel
studs which were installed with to much force so check the bulletin and all
you wheel studs. Especially with that V8 power.
Stan East
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Joe West
08-22-2005, 07:25 AM
From: "Jim Davis" <jld@wk.net>
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I use a ball joint press.
Jim Davis
Al Kidd wrote:
> Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use
> of a large
> persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year
> and want to replace
> them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could
> only get one hub
> changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat,
> and the use of a two
> pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
>
> Al
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 20:17:57 -0500
Re: <VV> Wheel studs
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Ue a 5 pound hammer! ;~) John Ryall
On Mon, 1 Nov 1999 19:03:16 -0500 Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca> writes:
> Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
> persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to
> replace
> them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get
> one hub
> changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use
> of a two
> pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
>
> Al
>
>
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Joe West
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From: Al Kidd <AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca>
To: "'virtualvairs@skiblack.com'" <virtualvairs@skiblack.com>
<VV> Wheel studs
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 19:03:16 -0500
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Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to replace
them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a two
pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
Al
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Joe West
08-22-2005, 07:33 AM
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Re: <VV> Wheel studs
To: AKidd@nimlok.on.ca, virtualvairs@skiblack.com
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I used a 4 pound hammer, with old lug nuts on the end. It was actually pretty
easy. Seriously, try a heavier hammer. One shot, and out they come. And with
the lug nut on the end, you run a lot lower risk of the hammer reshaping
something you don't want reshaped, like the hub center. :)
John Roberts
In a message dated 11/1/99 7:23:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
AKidd@Nimlok.on.ca writes:
<< Is there an easy way to change wheel studs without the use of a large
persauding device like a hammer? I broke one this year and want to replace
them all to avoid it happening curb side again. I could only get one hub
changed after liberal amounts of penetrating oil, heat, and the use of a two
pound hammer. Must be an easier way.
Al >>
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From: "Bill Elliott" <wcelliot@my-deja.com>
Joe West
08-26-2005, 12:13 PM
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From: Sadek Charles H DLVA <SadekCH@NSWC.NAVY.MIL>
To: "'fastvair@onelist.com'" <fastvair@onelist.com>,
"'virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com'" <virtualvairs@corvair.hostway.com>
<VV> Wheel Studs
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:57:16 -0400
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Folks,
I am switching to half inch diameter (x20) wheel studs because I
can't get lug nuts in large enough shank diameter to fit the holes in my
real Minilites. They are .75 dia. I haven't found any that will do except
in 1/2"x20 (truck) sizes. Plus I would like to use aluminum drums on rear
and they are thicker and need longer studs. Any advice on lug nuts?
Second problem. Asuming I go with 1/2" x 20 longer studs, I bought Moroso
studs which are 2 1/2 to 3 inch 1/2 x 20 studs and have what Summit said
were the shortest splined shoulder section (about a half inch) and/or
smallest od (.554 or so) of any they had. You can see the problem. The
stock front hub 'plate' is about 1/4 thick as is the rear. Do I make a
spacer that has a larger od holes to fit over splined section? Should I
make and weld plates to rear of wheel mounting/stud hub plate and drill thru
them so the splined section has more meat and doesn't stick out and
interfere with the nut ...? Obviuosly I must drill larger holes for the
larger studs polus larger holes for the brake shoes thereby making these 1/2
stud/car-specific.
I have room and rules leeway to use a spacer. There are three
issues. 1. Is there a problem with only having a portion, about 1/4" of the
splined shoulder engaged? Shouldn't really think so since the smaller and
shorter studs only use 1/4". 2. I am worrying about the lug nut whether it
be a regular one for the steel wheels (as used at Blackhawk) or a
shouldered, straight shank lug nut for Minilites bottoming on the splines.
For the steel wheels this would be a problem. For mags, I think you want
the length of the shank to be almost the depth of the wheel stud hole
resulting in a possible similar interference problem. For this one has to
turn off the splines or obtain another stud...if there is one. 3. I could
take circular 1/4" steel plates and tack weld to back of plate; then drill
thru when the plate holes are enlarged, thereby giving me almost a half inch
of steel to press the splines in.
> An alternative to all of this, assuming #1 above is the spacers of
> 1/4 AL with holes sized to clearance fit the splined section so they can
> be removed!
> What have others done? Is there a better wheel stud?
Thanks,
> Chuck
YS 073
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Joe West
09-03-2005, 11:10 AM
From bwschug@charter.net Wed Dec 1 21:43:14 2004
From: bwschug@charter.net (Bruce Schug)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 16:43:14 -0500
<VV> Wheel stud torque, etc.
In-Reply-To: <20041201.130225.-804221.4.vairologist@juno.com>
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Message-ID: <01029F3D-43E2-11D9-AC76-000A958EBF2A@charter.net>
Are all Corvair lug nuts and studs the same?
I'm no expert on nuts and bolts, but I thought that a given "nut and
bolt" required a specific torque no matter what it was being used for,
that is, whether it was on an early-model or a late-model; holding a
steel wheel or an alloy one; a rod cap or a shroud.
Now one of you real experts tell me the facts of the matter.
Bruce
Joe West
09-03-2005, 11:11 AM
From Sethracer@aol.com Wed Dec 1 22:10:50 2004
From: Sethracer@aol.com (Sethracer@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 17:10:50 EST
<VV> Wheel stud torque, etc.
Message-ID: <1e8.2f5688d6.2edf9b6a@aol.com>
In a message dated 12/1/2004 1:45:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
bwschug@charter.net writes:
Are all Corvair lug nuts and studs the same?
I'm no expert on nuts and bolts, but I thought that a given "nut and
bolt" required a specific torque no matter what it was being used for,
that is, whether it was on an early-model or a late-model; holding a
steel wheel or an alloy one; a rod cap or a shroud.
Now one of you real experts tell me the facts of the matter.
Bruce
Well, Bruce -
I'm not a real expert. I don't even play one on TV. Torque ratings can be
based on the thread size. Certainly Flat-Nut clamping force torque is specific
to threads size, shaft diameter and material grade. Flat nut torque is based
on % stretch of the thread interface to provide clamping of the article
in-between as well as resistance to self-removal. On a wheel bolt/stud, especially
a tapered seat interface, as on the stock Corvair, there is (potentially)
more contact area between the nut and the wheel. Given the weight of the
Corvair, there is a likely amount of force applied to the wheel-center to drive
axle interface, trying to pull the wheel off. On the late models, that clamping
force has 5 studs to provide it, as opposed to 4 studs on the early cars.
Perhaps that would allow a lesser torque requirement for the 5-lugs, instead of
the 4-lugs of the early. - Seth
Joe West
09-03-2005, 11:18 AM
From ronchoy@comcast.net Thu Dec 2 00:15:12 2004
From: ronchoy@comcast.net (ronchoy@comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 00:15:12 +0000
<VV> Re:e: Wheel stud torque\torque wrench
Message-ID: <120220040015.27654.41AE5E900001A70C00006C062200737 478970108
0C02019D@comcast.net>
I've had a clicker torque wrench lately used only for wheel studs. The adjusters gone loose, so it's far out of calibration. Since i now use it only for wheel studs, I'd like to set it at say, 60 lbft. I do have a working beam style torque wrench. Could i come fairly close if I used the beam style wrench to torque a wheelnut to 60lbft, then progressively adjusted the beam wrench until I moved the nut? -ron 65,66
Joe West
09-03-2005, 11:20 AM
From: virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org]On Behalf Of ronchoy@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 7:15 PM
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
<VV> Re:e: Wheel stud torque\torque wrench
I've had a clicker torque wrench lately used only for wheel studs. The
adjusters gone loose, so it's far out of calibration. Since i now use it
only for wheel studs, I'd like to set it at say, 60 lbft. I do have a
working beam style torque wrench. Could i come fairly close if I used the
beam style wrench to torque a wheelnut to 60lbft, then progressively
adjusted the beam wrench until I moved the nut? -ron 65,66
Joe West
09-03-2005, 11:21 AM
----- Original Message -----
From: <ronchoy@comcast.net>
To: <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 6:15 PM
<VV> Re:e: Wheel stud torque\torque wrench
> I've had a clicker torque wrench lately used only for wheel studs. The
adjusters gone loose, so it's far out of calibration. Since i now use it
only for wheel studs, I'd like to set it at say, 60 lbft. I do have a
working beam style torque wrench. Could i come fairly close if I used the
beam style wrench to torque a wheelnut to 60lbft, then progressively
adjusted the beam wrench until I moved the nut? -ron 65,66
> _______________________________________________
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Joe West
09-03-2005, 11:36 AM
-----Original Message-----
From: Sethracer@aol.com [mailto:Sethracer@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 5:11 PM
To: bwschug@charter.net; virtualvairs@corvair.org
Re: <VV> Wheel stud torque, etc.
In a message dated 12/1/2004 1:45:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
bwschug@charter.net writes:
Are all Corvair lug nuts and studs the same?
I'm no expert on nuts and bolts, but I thought that a given "nut and
bolt" required a specific torque no matter what it was being used for,
that is, whether it was on an early-model or a late-model; holding a
steel wheel or an alloy one; a rod cap or a shroud.
Now one of you real experts tell me the facts of the matter.
Bruce
Well, Bruce -
I'm not a real expert. I don't even play one on TV. Torque ratings can be
based on the thread size. Certainly Flat-Nut clamping force torque is
specific
to threads size, shaft diameter and material grade. Flat nut torque is based
on % stretch of the thread interface to provide clamping of the article
in-between as well as resistance to self-removal. On a wheel bolt/stud,
especially
a tapered seat interface, as on the stock Corvair, there is (potentially)
more contact area between the nut and the wheel. Given the weight of the
Corvair, there is a likely amount of force applied to the wheel-center to
drive
axle interface, trying to pull the wheel off. On the late models, that
clamping
force has 5 studs to provide it, as opposed to 4 studs on the early cars.
Perhaps that would allow a lesser torque requirement for the 5-lugs,
instead of
the 4-lugs of the early. - Seth
Joe West
09-19-2005, 03:10 AM
From goofyroo@excite.com Tue Nov 30 22:48:27 2004
From: goofyroo@excite.com (goofyroo@excite.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 17:48:27 -0500 (EST)
<VV> Wheel Stud Torque
Message-ID: <20041130224827.94FDDB6C0@xprdmailfe20.nwk.excite.c om>
Just tight enough to hold the wheel on; but with the studs greased so a 105-lb. wife can still change the tire in a hurry. ;-)
Michael Smith
Dallas
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Joe West
11-18-2005, 07:09 AM
Somewhere between Reno, NV and Coos Bay, Or.
From Taruffi57 at aol.com Mon Oct 10 11:35:59 2005
From: Taruffi57 at aol.com (Taruffi57@aol.com)
Date: Mon Oct 10 11:36:06 2005
<VV> Re: HELP !! -- Changing wheel/axel studs on a LM
Message-ID: <1a0.3e160ca2.307be45f@aol.com>
Has anyone ever changed rear wheel studs without removing the wheel spindle
flange? I want to install slightly longer studs. I can see that I can drive
them out and should be able to slip new ones into the holes but was
wondering if it is possible to use old lug nuts and cinch the new studs in until they
bottom out with a big wrench or air impact. Not sure if I can pull them
fully in with this method. I am also not sure if I may damage something else by
driving them out while on the car.
Signed: Lazy Mechanic
Joe Dunlap
Central Florida
;64 Monza conv., '69 Coupe 140, 4 spd. street hooligan
Joe West
11-18-2005, 07:11 AM
'64 Monza conv., '69 Coupe, 140, 4 spd., street hooligan
From starship at worldonline.co.za Mon Oct 10 11:53:54 2005
From: starship at worldonline.co.za (Nick Elzinga)
Date: Mon Oct 10 11:54:39 2005
<VV> Re: HELP !! -- Changing wheel/axel studs on a LM
In-Reply-To: <1a0.3e160ca2.307be45f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20051010155434.753F36FFA@ctb-mesg6.saix.net>
I did this job about 14 years ago. I recall it was reasonably easy; however
I can't remember the finer details. I took the hubs off the car and with a
suitably sized socket over the rear end of the stud and a nut screwed on to
the front end, I pressed them out with a hydraulic press. The new ones
splines were oiled and with the aid of a socket over the stud, a suitable
thick washer and a nut the studs were pulled home with ease. I wouldn't
hammer them out and keep air tools away from wheels studs. I've seen what
happens.
Nick
-----Original Message-----
Joe West
11-18-2005, 07:11 AM
From: virtualvairs-bounces@corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces@corvair.org] On Behalf Of Taruffi57@aol.com
Sent: 10 October 2005 05:36 PM
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
<VV> Re: HELP !! -- Changing wheel/axel studs on a LM
Has anyone ever changed rear wheel studs without removing the wheel spindle
flange? I want to install slightly longer studs. I can see that I can
drive
them out and should be able to slip new ones into the holes but was
wondering if it is possible to use old lug nuts and cinch the new studs in
until they
bottom out with a big wrench or air impact. Not sure if I can pull them
fully in with this method. I am also not sure if I may damage something
else by
driving them out while on the car.
Signed: Lazy Mechanic
Joe Dunlap
Central Florida
;64 Monza conv., '69 Coupe 140, 4 spd. street hooligan
Joe West
11-18-2005, 07:12 AM
From yenko117 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 10 12:26:20 2005
From: yenko117 at yahoo.com (Mike Stillwell)
Date: Mon Oct 10 12:26:27 2005
<VV> Re: HELP !! -- Changing wheel/axel studs on a LM
In-Reply-To: <1a0.3e160ca2.307be45f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20051010162620.27571.qmail@web53008.mail.yahoo.com>
I've done this on street cars with no problems. You
could always cut the old studs about a 1/2 inch from
the wheel mounting hub, then drill them out with
progressively larger drills, carefull to stop before
you would hit the hub, then knock them out with a shot
filled hammer. Come to think of it, that might be a
lot of work as well, but you would run less of a risk
of warping the wheel mounting surface.
Mike
YS-117
--- Taruffi57@aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone ever changed rear wheel studs without
> removing the wheel spindle
> flange? I want to install slightly longer studs. I
> can see that I can drive
> them out and should be able to slip new ones into
> the holes but was
> wondering if it is possible to use old lug nuts and
> cinch the new studs in until they
> bottom out with a big wrench or air impact. Not
> sure if I can pull them
> fully in with this method. I am also not sure if I
> may damage something else by
> driving them out while on the car.
>
> Signed: Lazy Mechanic
>
__________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page!
Joe West
11-18-2005, 04:27 PM
IECC
From r.gault at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 11 00:32:01 2005
From: r.gault at sbcglobal.net (Roger Gault)
Date: Tue Oct 11 00:29:36 2005
<VV> Re: VirtualVairs Digest, Replacing wheel studs - LM
References: <1df.45abaaa8.307c8109@aol.com>
Message-ID: <009201c5ce1c$b97e8590$6400a8c0@GaultComputer>
Joe,
If you've removed them all, just start all 5 of them back in enough to be
pretty stable. Then you can put the drum back on and lock the brakes to
stop the rotation while you wrench them the rest of the way in. Four feet
of pipe slipped over the breaker bar will be worth the price of the pipe.
Roger
Joe West
11-18-2005, 04:53 PM
From hdflstf at earthlink.net Tue Oct 11 11:23:01 2005
From: hdflstf at earthlink.net (AKG)
Date: Tue Oct 11 11:23:11 2005
<VV> Re: VirtualVairs Digest, Replacing wheel studs - LM
In-Reply-To: <009201c5ce1c$b97e8590$6400a8c0@GaultComputer>
Message-ID: <BF7126E5.15846B%hdflstf@earthlink.net>
4 feet of pipe on a breaker bar!! Sounds like a sure fire way to overstress
the studs to ensure they fail at a very bad time. There's a reason that the
lug nuts are torqued to 65 ft-lbs not 300 ft-lbs.
The Artful Dodger
Joe West
11-18-2005, 04:53 PM
> From: "Roger Gault" <r.gault@sbcglobal.net>
> Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 23:32:01 -0500
> To: "Corvair List" <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
> Re: <VV> Re: VirtualVairs Digest, Replacing wheel studs - LM
>
> Joe,
>
> If you've removed them all, just start all 5 of them back in enough to be
> pretty stable. Then you can put the drum back on and lock the brakes to
> stop the rotation while you wrench them the rest of the way in. Four feet
> of pipe slipped over the breaker bar will be worth the price of the pipe.
>
> Roger
>
>
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